Waking Up in Oz

An American Girl's Adventures in Australia

See You Next Year!*

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I’m bracing myself for the madness of New Year’s Eve in Sydney. Forecast says it’s gonna rain. Legend says we will need to get to our chosen vantage point along the harbour at about 10 a.m. in order to secure a spot.  My liver says it hates me. It appears the City of Sydney has really cracked down on allowing people to bring their own alcohol to the parks along the harbour. This very handy map on the city’s web site has been invaluable in scouting out which places (very, very few) allow BYO alcohol. The good news for those with bottomless pockets is most spots are selling alcohol and food. We’re still opting to go to one of the BYO places though, since we’re planning on being there upwards of 14 hours I can only imagine what kind of  bar tab I’d acquire in 14 hours. The first fireworks display starts at 9 pm and my goal is to still be coherent for that one. Not making any promises for the midnight fireworks.

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If you’re not following along with Mandi’s blog in addition to mine, I suggest you read her latest post about our temporary roommate. Our real roommate is traveling for 3 weeks and rented out her room to this complete freak in the mean time.  This guy is a goldmine for quotes and I’m sure he’ll be prominently featured in some of my future blog posts (example: last night he told Mandi he was still hungover from the night before because he was staring at titties all night in the strip clubs. EW!).

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*It’s always annoyed the crap out of me when someone says “see you next year!” right before New Year’s and think they’re being oh-so-clever.

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Breaking Tradition

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It’s been brought to my attention Christmas Eve is one of the biggest drinking days in Australia. We’re spending the afternoon at the Opera Bar, which has kind of become our go-to bar. Our plans for Christmas Day include cooking up an Italian feast then going to see Avatar 3D. And what did Santa bring me this year? Mandi and I just had a used washing machine delivered (since the girl who moved out of our flat took the other one with her).

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This year will be nothing like the past 25 Christmases I’ve had. I think it’s good Christmas is completely different here. It makes me forget I’m not back home with my family and friends and makes it easier to celebrate in such a non-traditional way. Hope everyone has a very Merry Christmas/Hanukkah/Festivus!

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Expect a new blog in the next few days about Sydney beaches. Being unemployed has allowed me to visit 7 different beaches already so I’ll write up my opinion on each one.

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P.S. I’ve joined Twitter.

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Sydney Hostels: The Good, The Bad, The Ugly

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I fancy myself a bit of a Sydney hostel expert after my month-long stint of being homeless. Since one of my initial objectives for this blog was to offer helpful information to people thinking of doing a working holiday in Australia (but let’s face it… I’m not much for goals, as this has turned into an outlet for me to bitch), I’ve compiled my thoughts on the three hostels I stayed at.  I present to you, in order of best to worst, my guide to hosteling in Sydney. Note: We were staying in twin share rooms and using a communal bathroom in every hostel, not staying in dorm rooms.

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1. The Strand Hotel, 99 William Street, Sydney

The Strand was the second hostel I stayed at, and considering how wretched the first hostel was, my expectations were pretty low. This hostel takes up 3 floors above a pub. It used to be a hotel but was renovated into a hostel within the last year. It’s walking distance to the city, Kings Cross and Darlinghurst, but it’s a 10-15 minute walk to the closest train station (we went back and forth between using Kings Cross or Town Hall for trains, it’s pretty much right between those two stations). The rooms were very clean and comfortable. The bathrooms were pretty clean, too, and there was a private shower and toilet on one floor which we usually used to shower in and there was also a communal bathroom with only 2 showers and one toilet. It had two kitchens, one of which was really nice. It looked like the kitchen in someone’s house and not the typical hostel kitchen. There was another kitchen on the top floor near the laundry room and roof deck. The pub downstairs had good food and beer at a decent price, so that was a perk. My biggest complaint is there was no common area with a TV, there was just a roof deck with picnic tables. We saw a sign that you could rent a TV/DVD player for your room, but didn’t look into that. If I was staying in a dorm room I would want to have a common area I could escape to, since we were in our own room I guess that wasn’t as bad. Also, this didn’t feel like a hostel experience. The “reception” area consists of walking up to the bar in the pub and having one of the bartenders check you in. That was fine by us, since we’re old maids and weren’t looking for a hostel partying experience. This definitely wasn’t a party spot. Overall, it gets my highest vote. OH! Huge bonus: one of the managers gave us a 50% discount for two nights when we booked here for the second time (we stayed here 4 nights, then came back for another 2 nights) AND it was for the nicest room, a twin share with its own bathroom. I think it was only because my gentleman friend knows him and tipped him off to give the 2 American girls top notch treatment, not sure if the guy gives people discounts on a whim.

2. 790 on George, 790 George Street, Sydney

This one is neck and neck with The Strand. If I was looking for more of the typical hosteling experience, I would have chosen this one. It would have been a good place to socialize but since this was our last hostel we were grumpy and ready to have our own apartment by that point. It was located right next to Central Station and walking distance to just about anywhere in the city (we walked to Darling Harbour one day in about 20 minutes). There’s a bar almost literally below the hostel, called Scubar, which we actually went to one night before we booked this hostel. I think it’s normally filled with backpackers, hence the really decent prices. This hostel was huge compared to the others we stayed at, it had 6 floors, 2 commons areas, laundry room, and huge kitchen. Our room was  pretty clean but the pillows were NASTY! Fortunately they provide sheets and pillow cases, but I was still skeeved out by the pillow. A huge perk is all of the rooms have air conditioning. The bathroom was decent, although one of the showers’ water pressure was enough to knock you off your feet. Judging by the amount of food being stored in the kitchen, there were roughly 5 million people staying here. The kitchen was always busy, we actually cooked dinner in there one night and had to wait our turn to use a stove top. We also did laundry here. It cost $4/load and they sold detergent at the front desk. Since it cost so much for one load (how I longed for the days of 75 cents/load in my college dorm laundry room), there was never anyone using the laundry machines. There was also an iron (with Japanese writing) and ironing board down there that I used a few times. My favorite thing about this place was the staff at the front desk. They actually knew what they were talking about and seemed like they enjoyed working there. They were always really friendly and would actually recognize us as we came and went, by the end of our stay they were asking how our job interviews/apartment hunting was going.

3. The Pink House, 6-8 Barncleuth Square, Kings Cross

This dump comes in dead last on my list. I would almost put sleeping on the sidewalk above this place. I’ve already written about it here and Mandi wrote about how we had to evacuate here, but there is plenty more to say. The only redeeming quality about this place is it’s location. There are tons of bars, clubs, cafes and restaurants right there, as well as the Kings Cross station. Upon checking in, we were greeted by a French guy at the front desk who either I couldn’t understand or knew absolutely nothing. The staff here are employed a few hours a day in exchange for staying at the hostel, and the woman who runs the hostel is extremely wacky.  Basically, no one knew anything, not that it matters, since there’s not much to know about this hostel other than it’s the most disgusting place I’ve ever slept in (and I’ve slept in a frat house or two back in the day). Not that I slept much here, since  people enjoy fighting outside at 4 a.m., the fire alarm likes to go off in the middle of the night, and a monkey lived outside our window (I later found out this was a kookaburra, a bird that sounds freakishly like a primate). The hostel itself is an old house that’s exactly what I would imagine the house of a crazy cat lady to look like. Seriously, every time I went down the stairs I wondered if the whole place was gonna collapse around me (please refrain from jokes about how that may be from the amount of McDonalds I’ve eaten). I cannot say enough bad things about this place. Don’t stay here.

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$14 Breakfast

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Being that I’m unemployed, I probably shouldn’t have spent $14 on breakfast this morning. Mandi woke up with the brilliant idea of having a Saturday morning breakfast in Newtown, so we hopped on the bus and scouted out somewhere along King Street that looked promising. We settled on Grub & Tucker after seeing their menu was slightly less expensive than the other cafes we’d passed. As a lover of a huge breakfast, I opted for their ginormous vegetarian breakfast (which, by my estimations, wasn’t all that vegetarian): eggs any style, baked beans, spinach, grilled tomatoes, sauteed mushrooms, corn and potato hashbrown, sourdough toast, orange juice and coffee. Yes, it cost $13.90 but it was extremely filling and I justified the price by saying it would cost me twice as much to buy all of the ingredients and make the same breakfast at home. I have seen bacon and eggs for more than $12 at some places which is criminal. It was a fantastic and satisfying breakfast and it’s now 5 hours later and I’m not the slightest bit hungry. Bonus: our waitress was American. The funny thing is whenever I hear an American accent I don’t pick up on it right away. I assume the person isn’t American and must have a trace of another accent I’m not picking up. It’s been made clear to us asking someone if they’re American is an insult, so I hesitate to piss off any Canadians by asking if they’re American (although quite frankly, they can suck it). Anyway, out waitress was super friendly and lives in our neighborhood so we made tentative plans to meet up soon.

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The good thing about unemployment is when it’s a nice day during the week, you can head straight for the beach. We spent yesterday at Bondi Beach, which is surprisingly my favorite beach I’ve been to so far. I’d been told it’s super touristy and packed, but we went on a Friday and it was perfect. The sand is great, the water is beautiful, and it wasn’t crowded. It actually made us decide Coogee is a big pile of dog poo in comparison, so we’re glad we didn’t end up living there.  Don’t get me wrong, Coogee Beach is nice but the shops and buildings are kind of run down and any time I’ve been to the beach there it’s extremely crowded. Perhaps I’m just extremely bitter we didn’t stand a chance in hell at renting a place there. Yeah, that’s probably it.

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I don’t think I’ve mentioned here that we have visitors coming for New Year’s. We have a friend and her boyfriend who live in Melbourne (she is American, he is Aussie) coming to stay with us for a few nights and join us for New Year’s Eve festivities. We’ve decided to pack a massive amount of booze and food and join the thousands upon thousands of other people who spend the day along the water in anticipation of the ridiculous fireworks set off on the Harbour Bridge and all along the harbour.  Now that I think about it, this fireworks display sounds completely over the top, so I may end up taking back my claim that Australia does not do obnoxious as well as America. Apparently to claim a decent spot we will have to get there around 10 am. I’m not entirely sure how I will survive until midnight, but I do know I’m bringing deodorant. We originally thought we would shell out well over $100 to go out to a club for the night, but after thinking it through we think this will be a better time. For one thing, we won’t have to dress up. I’ve been dressing up for New Year’s Eve since I was about 15 years old so this will be a nice change of pace. Shorts and a tank top? Sign me up. I’ve already started to plan a picnic menu for the day. I figure we will need stuff that will travel well and keep for hours, so any picnic food suggestions would be much appreciated (I’m looking at you, Brianne).

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P.S. Speaking of food, I came across this awesome food blog a few days ago: Smitten Kitchen.

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Sydney in Pictures

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Photo highlights from some of my touristy activities since arriving in Sydney…

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Under the Harbour Bridge looking at the Opera House

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Coogee Beach

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Three Sisters, Blue Mountains

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Petting a kangaroo at Koala Park Sanctuary

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All dressed up for the horse races at Randwick

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One of the best mullets I’ve seen: two-toned and permed

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Where All My Money Goes…

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My recent negligence toward my blog has led to me leaving out part of what I consider the most important part of my journey so far… eating! Here’s a rundown of a few of the restaurants I’ve been to so far…

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As anyone who has read more than 2 posts by me has already noticed, I’m obsessed with Mexican food. I’m happy to report I found a decent Mexican place in Sydney. Once I got past the $13 price tag on the margaritas, I had an awesome and unexpected dining experience at Cafe Pacifico in Darlinghurst. I ordered 3 beef tacos which cost less than my margarita. If you stick to the appetizer menu and hold off on margaritas (but really, what’s the point without margaritas), it would actually be a reasonably priced meal. My only complaint is they haven’t perfected seasoning the meat, they used cinnamon to season the beef which tasted a little off. I think if I went back (who am I kidding? WHEN I go back) I would stick to chicken or even one of the vegetarian options, but overall I give the place two thumbs up. We were having a shitty day and this place was right around the corner from our hostel, it was exactly what we needed to cheer us up.

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I’m down with the whole meat pie phenomenon here, anything involving pastry and meat is OK in my book. I was pumped to try Harry’s Cafe de Wheels in Woolloomooloo. It’s possibly the most famous pie place in Sydney. It’s just a little cart and there’s always a huge line at lunchtime. I had high expectations and I ended up disappointed. I got a beef pie topped with mashed potatoes and ketchup, and I’ll go as far as saying it sucked. Any Aussie I say this to is surprised I didn’t like it, so who knows. The other meat pies I’ve had were delicious, this one definitely fell short. On the bright side it was only like $4 which is a killer deal here for a full meal.

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My love for food runs deep but it’s by no means a sophisticated kind of love. I have no shame saying I love me some casual dining chain restaurants from back in the U.S., so you can imagine my excitement over eating at Outback Steakhouse in North Strathfield. I was ecstatic to find it tastes exactly the same as at home. They definitely toned down the Aussie-themed flair, but the menu was almost exactly the same as well (bonus: they put the steak weights in grams AND ounces, woo hoo!). I got the Outback Special sirloin, a loaded baked potato, salad with honey mustard and had the chicken wings as an appetizer (which they call an entree here… confusing). I was ready to burst at the seams after that meal but it’s great to know when I’m craving a major pig out, I can head to an Australian-themed, American-owned restaurant to get my fix. I was a little sad to find out Chili’s has shut down here, I think I’d give a kidney for their quesadillas right about now.

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Home Sweat Home

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If you know me, you know this much: I don’t like to be hot and I sweat like crazy. This has been a slight issue in the land down under because air conditioning (aka “air con” here) is a luxury and temperatures have been hovering in the high 30s some days (that’s in the high 90s F). I have spent many a night tossing and turning because I’m so freakin’ hot. I know since I’m from Florida and we are crazy A/C dependent there, this has been a bit of a shock to my body. Maybe I handle the heat even worse since I’ve been able to cool down in the A/C my whole life? Maybe the Aussies have just adapted better. Don’t get me wrong, air conditioning exists here. Most nicer places have it, they just don’t use it much. As I type this I’m sitting directly in front of our A/C unit basking in a glorious 18 C/64 F breeze. The problem is the A/C is only in the living room and none of it makes it into the bedroom. Ugh.

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But hey, if I’m sitting in front of an A/C unit in a living room, that must mean I’m no longer homeless! We moved into our new place this past Saturday. Right now we are waiting for my room to be vacated, so Mandi and I are sharing a room and we have two roommates until next Saturday. After that it will be just Mandi, me and another roommate. I don’t want to give away my exact location on this blog as I realize roughly 1 out of every 5 people reading this is a serial rapist and/or killer, but  I will say we’re in a less than desirable inner west suburb. The pros are we are a 10 minute train ride into the city, our apartment is the penthouse, and we have about 5 dollar stores on our street. I know a dollar store doesn’t sound like a selling point, but believe me, after living in this freakishly expensive city for more than a month, anywhere selling paper towels for $2 is my new favorite store. Another perk is we’re only like a 5 minute bus ride to Newtown, the much cooler suburb near us. Hopefully I haven’t given away our exact location, but I’ll let all you murderers know you need a key just to get onto the floor of my apartment so good luck to you.

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I’ve noticed Australia sucks at being obnoxious. America thrives on all things obnoxious, especially Christmas. There is no mistaking in the U.S. when it’s Christmas time, between the annoying music on every radio station, tacky inflatable reindeers in people’s front yards, feeling obligated to buy people you don’t like presents, and that crazy black dancing Santa in every department store. But here, there’s a somewhat unsettling lack of Christmas decorations/music/lights. I seriously forget it’s almost Christmas. There are decorations in the malls but they aren’t very in your face and done in tasteful colors like white and silver. Even the mall Santa I saw was oddly thin for Santa (is Santa only fat in America? I know it’s fitting and all, but I thought he was universally fat). I do kind of miss the obnoxious spectacle of Christmas in America, and yet at the same time I rather enjoy not being subjected to Christmas music everywhere I go.

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Still Alive

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No, I didn’t get killed by a tranny in King’s Cross. I know I’ve been the world’s worst blogger but you’re gonna have to cut me some slack since I’ve been a gypsy for more than a month. To date, I’ve lived in THREE different hostels in addition to my friends’ house way out in the middle of nowhere. The good news is we’ve been offered to rent out two rooms in someone’s apartment, so if that works out we can move in on December 12 (or the 12th of December, as they say here).

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Lots has happen since I last wrote in here, and yet not much has happened at all. I pet a koala and a kangaroo at the Koala Park Sanctuary, I went to the horse races at the Randwick race track (I even wore one of those hideous bow/feather hairpieces called “fascinators” that girls wear here without thinking they look ridiculous), and the thrill of spotting mullets has died since there are just too many to count. I even had an interview today with a temp agency. I know in my last post I said I was fine with not working, but I take that back. I’m bored! Mandi and I have read one too many books, there is so much down time when you’re unemployed that you feel extremely restless. Which brings me to my next point…

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This has been the hardest thing I’ve ever done.  Between the difficulty of finding a place to live, being away from home on my favorite holiday, living out of a suitcase for a month, and not having any of the comforts of home, it has been pretty draining. Some days both Mandi and I are really down, some days it’s just one of us. Some days we’re ourselves and laughing, but I would never tell anyone this has been easy. And yet, we’ve survived and things are slowly coming together and in the end I think we’ll look back on this somewhat shitty month of constant trials and laugh at how everything that could possibly go wrong would go wrong for us.

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Hulkamania

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Tonight’s our last night in this shitty hostel. I’m kind of sad to be leaving it. Between the Dutch hookers fighting outside at 4 am, a helicopter circling over us in the middle of the night, and the monkey I’m convinced lives in a tree outside our window, it’s kind of grown on me here. We’re going back to the middle of nowhere for the weekend and booked for next week at another much nicer hostel at The Strand Hotel. We went by it today to get a tour and it was like the Ritz Carlton compared to our current hostel. By the way, the dump we’ve been staying at is called The Pink House. I highly advise against staying there unless you enjoy  French dudes sitting on the stairs in their tightie whities.

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My oldest brother has been on town this week on business. He’s been staying at the Sheraton at Hyde Park and was nice enough to give me a key that allows us to access all the facilities. I think the entire staff there knows Mandi and I, we’ve definitely taken advantage of all the amenities. They have free drinks and appetizers every evening from 5-7:30. As you can imagine we’ve been there every evening. We’ve even been making it to the free breakfast there, then lounging around for a couple hours. The staff must wonder why the hell we’re even in Sydney since we spend all day sitting around a hotel. I even stole a few wash cloths from one of the bathrooms. Basically anything that’s not bolted down in the Sheraton I think it’s OK to shove it in my purse. I really have acquired a homeless person’s mentality the past few weeks. Someone who shall remain nameless stole a roll of toilet paper out of the garbage earlier this week (hint: her name rhymes with candy).

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So yesterday we were walking out of the hotel after being complete freeloaders all day and Mandi gets my attention. I turn around to see the back of a huge orange man with long bleached blonde hair. It was Hulk Hogan! We just stood there dying laughing for a while. How random is that? Why the hell is he in Sydney?? Obviously I immediately googled the official Hulk Hogan web site to find he and a bunch of other old school wrestlers are doing a tour around Australia. I know that Aus is kind of behind in a lot of things (see my last post re: mullets), but this is really pushing it. I don’t think anyone gives a crap about Hulk anymore at home. I’m so upset I didn’t get a picture with him, but I felt kind of dumb going up to him. Anyway, we went back to the hotel that evening (free drinks, remember?) in hopes we’d see him. We saw a few other wrestlers but unfortunately no other Hulk sightings. If I see him again I’m gonna ask if he’ll come with us to some apartment inspections, maybe that’ll yield some results for us.

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Last night my brother took us out to an extremely swanky Asian restaurant called China Doll at the Woolloomooloo wharf (Russell Crowe lives in one of the condos there). We did the tasting menu which was at least 10 courses. I’ve never had a restaurant experience like that, it was incredible. I kept an eye out for Russell Crowe but had no luck. Apparently everyone here hates him anyway so he stays undercover.

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We’ve completely changed our plan of attack as far as housing goes. We’ve been looking for places rented out by the owners instead of going through the real estate agents. Some of you have commented on here that’s the way to go and it seems that’s the only way we’ll have any success. Today we’re going to see a place in Wollstonecraft in the Lower North Shore. It seems like a pretty good location. Not party central by any means but at this point we’re wanting something more residential anyway. The couple who owns it is going traveling for 3.5 months, so it would be totally furnished. It looks great in the pictures. So hopefully after we kiss their asses at the inspection they’ll pick us. It would at least give us time to get jobs and look around more areas.

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Speaking of jobs, I’m really enjoying not having one. You know how some people say they’d get bored if they didn’t work? I’m definitely not having that problem. Maybe Hulk will loan me some cash so I don’t have to work the rest of the year.

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P.S. They DO have Reese’s peanut butter cups. We paid $4 for a king size pack. I just paid $2.50 for M & M’s and I paid $2.90 for a bottle of water earlier today. The ridiculous prices don’t really phase me anymore.

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How (Not) to Speak Australian: Lesson 1

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Girl at KFC: Would you like a serviette?

Mandi: Sure, I’ll have barbeque sauce.

Serviette means napkin. Oops. Lesson learned.


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